The statue of Leonidas, hero of the Battle of Thermopylae in Sparta. Arriving in Athens in the late evening, the next morning I already continued the journey to the Peloponnese by bus. It was around midday when I left my luggage at the accommodation and went out to experience my first dose of mediterranean heat.At 2 PM – purposefully of course – at the ancient ruins (no payment, it’s free)The main ridge of the Taygetus with strong mythological connotations is located south-west of the city. It is said that the “inapt” newborns were dropped in a chasm somewhere in these mountains and only the more sturdy ones were kept alive. While according to the actual opinions this is a fictional exaggeration, it certainly have its roots in the strict nature of the old inhabitants’s ethics.Beside the more robust and older Greek and Roman constructions there are also a few medieval Byzantine structures A little off the path, remnant of an old wall, likely also ByzantineAround 3 PM it’s time for the first temperature check in the shade of an olive tree (notice the sensor above). IS THIS SPARTAAA?! Of course it is. The area has about the same summer highs as Andalusia in Spain, thus is one of the hottest places in entire Europe.The sunbaked olive trees maybe have some recollection of the times when this gentle prominence was an active ceremonial centerThe next morning: sunrise above the Taygetus with the pyramid of Profitis Ilias (2405 m) in the left. Today is an important day as I have to reach the chosen spot in the Evrotas gorge to place the meteorological equipment. The easiest (but not the cheapest) way is to take a taxi to Krokees village and start the hike from there. As I don’t have any time (nor energy for that matter) to waste, this is what I’ve done.At the periphery of Krokees around 9 AM: it’s already hot from the start, not a single cloud on the sky. The first few kilometers are on a rural road with little traffic (a few tractors).Agios Georgios church (according to Google Earth): leaving the asphalt I switched soon to “freestyle mode”, starting with a short-cut through the olive plantations. A valley, tributary to the Eurotas is only a few hundreds of meters away, my plan is to follow it until the confluence from where my target is closeUnsurprisingly, the valley has no water at all. In Greece, especially the Peloponnese, this is very common during the summer, the river revives only in the wetter period of the year (autumn-winter), when often becomes dangerous, flooding the surrounding plantations. But now the citrus fruits have a different enemy: drought. And I am at its mercy too.Leonidas lost his shield: suspecting that this part will likely not be a walk in the park, I am prepared with sufficient water (6 liters) to can handle carrying the heavy luggage in the heat. The work is even harder than I thought, the combination between the rugged terrain and dense vegetation sometimes seriously limits my progress. I had to return to collect the mosquito tent (green circle in the picture) as it was often pulled out of its anchorage.Fighting the boulder labyrinth. No idea how difficult could became later, but at this time already crossed my mind that maybe I will have to reconsider the plan to the target. The southern access through Skala village is certainly much easier. We’ll see. I like challenges, thus a return is only for an emergency situation. I haven’t checked my GPS in the tributary valley at all. Knowing that the direction is good, I’m somehow not curious regarding the distances, but my intuition is generally positive. Though, not as much as the temperatures are…This is the single puddle of water I came across in the entire gorge. Definitely not for drinking but very welcoming to cool off a little. There were lots of wasps around, but nobody was killed in the territorial conflict. And I am bigger.Before 11:30 AM I’m outside the ravine and soon reached the confluence. Okay, I will say that this was “reasonably exhaustive”, satisfying my addiction of adventure, while properly preserving the energy levels at the same time. This must be the “Skala road”. It’s likely above the human body temperature now, we’ll see it soon.Yep, the GPS is telling me that I arrived. It’s only slightly passed 11:30 AM, which considering the terrain I’ve crossed (around 6 km in the rough wilderness) is not bad at all. Choosing a ditch of the dried riverbed as the exact research spot, the logger was mounted soon on the tripod. Better than I imagined: the steep, barren eastern bank could add some reflected radiation to the general ambience during the afternoon.Shortly after 12 PM the weather station started its operation. The first reading was 37.7 degrees Celsius, a decent start. The placard is in case if somebody will came across the installation, but pondering this possibility now from the spot, that looks very unlikely.Before 2 PM the 40 degrees mark was exceeded. Already content that I packed the weather equipment in the luggage. Originally this trip was planned as a simple countryside traveling, but the optimistic forecast made me to change my mind in the last minutes. Sure, it will somehow limit my opportunities regarding the visited sights, but worth the sacrifice.Around 3 PM, my favorite time of day in the summer: still very powerful solar radiation, while already close to the maximum thermal potential, meaning that the felt temperature is likely the highest possible. To be precise, the radiation is the strongest at noon (around 1:30 PM here) when the sun angle is at its highest (UV component = you will be sunburned), while the air itself usually will warm a little more (IR component = highest temperature in the shade) until the mid-afternoon hours (4-5 PM).The limestone cliffs of the eastern side: changing the former resting place in the forest after the sun moved towards the west, I am waiting in the shade of a small mound covered with tall reeds, checking the temperature on the screen of the device from time to time. Still no clouds, sometimes there are a few wind gusts. Sometime before 4 PM the temperature reached 41 degrees Celsius, I think this will remain today’s peak. Good value, tomorrow it could be even hotter. Before 5 PM I packed my luggage and left the research area. The original plan was to camp nearby, but I changed my mind to continue the hike to Skala village. My resting place on the western bankThe riverbed is covered in some kind of “weird veil”, which I suspect to be dried algaeStill very hot around 5 PM, but as I thought, the path is much easier here, thus my progress is goodLooking back: after a few km the valley broadens. I heard that during the winter rains the Evrotas can turn into a raging torrent, destroying the plantations on its banks. I can imagine that.Some caves on the eastern side, soon I’m out of the gorge. After a short, wilder portion in the beginning, the track followed a dirt road along the orange plantations. Except a few birds, small lizards and the noisy cicadas I didn’t observed any living creatures during my hike, spotting a few goats and 1-2 cars only closer to the village.With sufficient water reserves remaining, shortly after 6:30 PM I reached Skala. But I hope to drink something else, not the 40 degree bathwater in my backpack. That something else happened to be Monster energy’s “the doctor” version. And yes, it cured me.The beach between Skala and Gytheio. Long story short: after refueling in Skala, heartened by the less severe temperatures of the approaching evening, I decided to camp on the nearest shore, taking a bath in the sea after this long, hot day. While easily completing the additional 6-7 kilometers on the straight asphalt road, I observed after arriving that my tent is missing. No way! After successfully getting through the wild gorge, I lost it here on the highway? I can’t stay here for the night. The beer was good, the bath even better, but after sunset the attack of the mosquitoes was relentless. I have to return to Skala and sleep in a hotel. This is what I’ve done, unfortunately my headlamp couldn’t spot the lost article along the road. Good night.The next day in Gytheio, the port of ancient Sparta (Profitis Ilias in the background). The picturesque coastal town (a little too crowded for my taste) is closely related to the story of the Trojan war, as it’s the place where Paris and Helen spent their first night before the departure to Troy. It was also famous in the antiquity because of the purple-dye snails (murex), the marine animal from which the expensive dye was extracted.The lighthouse (don’t confuse it with the one at Cape Tenaro) sits at the end of a thin promontory. The surface of the rocks along the coast is very sharp, but of course this didn’t stopped me to enter the balmy waters. Soon I will continue the journey to Gerolimenas, which is the final station of the Laconian buses. Already very hot, I measured 37 degrees in the shade at the bus station.The tranquil bay of Gerolimenas: I prefer it over the more touristic Gytheio. Buying some provisions in the supermarket (the last one in southern Mani) I continued my journey on the road by foot towards Kyparissos.Just a little outside the settlement I got the first glimpse of the Tenaro lighthouse,my next main target. The landscape of the Mani peninsula is more barren, resembling a semi-desert, only the blue sea is the constant reminder that you have some retreat options in case the sun is too harsh with you. But you will not have any available drinking source nearby, so careful with the planning.At ancient Kenipolis: this place was a colony of Tainaron (Taenarum). It’s time for another bath.There are only a few accommodations in nearby Alika and Kyparissos and none of them is cheap. The sea is free. Close to the water, because of the higher humidity, the same temperature feels hotter than more inlandPorto Mani suites. Because of its “strategic placement” on the way to the southern cape, I will spend the following night in this nice traditional complex. Forget the price, its a must.While you can hear them almost everywhere, representing the constant background noise of the greek experience, you can rarely spot the cicadas. Must be kind of a “Pavlovian reflex”, as for me it’s closely associated with the heat and sunshine.And why not a third bath at the private beach of the residencySunset from my balcony. It was another hot day and tomorrow could be the hottest one on the narrow peninsula. That means I have some homework to do, as the longer hike, including the trip to the cape was planned for 19th July. Complete lack of clouds both day and night, entering fairytale levelNow that’s a cool morning for sure…You can observe this small rocky outcrop situated about 5 km from the shore, first to the south, then to the west, starting from Gerolimenas until passing Marmari beach (big zoom of course)Ready? Hell yeah! Already above 35 degrees after 9 AMAfter a tasty breakfast at the accommodation I started to climb the serpentines towards the fortified village of Vathia. Excellent vibe in the atmosphere, the above average heat only intensifies the experience.Cutting the last big curve on the road I approach the ghost-town on a secondary path. Founding the gate closed, I enter the area along the old walls, meandering and climbing between the dusty architectural elements.Time for hydration. New tempcheck in the shade of the marble monument Classical view of the fortification. The now abandoned settlement is one of the most known tourist attractions in Mani, which sits around 150 meters above the sea level. You can stop for a drink at the nearby taverna. Spotless sky: this is the real face of Mani. If the visual component can’t satisfy you enough, there is also the olfactive one, as the air is filled with the emanations of the local aromatic herbs (salvia dominates)Greek rivieraThough not too close to the coast, there are many boats of different sizes on the seaSharp contrast between the arid, sunbaked land and the turquoise waters of the sea. The latter is very inviting, I feel a little seduced like Odysseus was when became the “hostage” of Calypso on the island of Ogygia. No, I have to continue.Next hydration stop at one of the very few shaded parts of the southern roadA lot of signs for a single person. Yes, I am approaching.I took the road towards Mianes village (haven’t seen locals there) to do the last part of the hike along the ridge, thus above the classical trackResting in the shade of some old walls. The heat started to affect me, until now the enthusiasm is already mixed with tirednessOn the final ridge. Exposed on the rugged terrain in the phrygana, being at the mercy of Helios, the last section demanded my full attention. I can’t stop thinking about the dive I will take after reaching the target. Somewhere below me on the right is the mythological “Cave of Hades”, a gate to the Underworld, the shady place from where only a few (like Hercules, Theseus and Orpheus) returned alive. At the moment I feel some weird inclination to enter that shady place…Kokkinogeia, the last inhabited place left behind on the leftShortly before 1 PM I reached the secluded building of Cape Tenaro. At 36.28 N, this is the second southernmost point of continental Europe (after cape Tarifa at the Strait of Gibraltar). Here I am slightly closer to the Equator than two African capitals: Tunis and Algiers.Built in 1882 by the French, for a few decades the lighthouse is automated, thus uninhabited, adding to the feeling of isolation. The tempcheck in the shade of the northern wall is a must before entering the tempting waters. The southern setting means that in the summer the sun angle is very high here and now it’s exactly around midday. I have to confess: it was premeditated again. This is the exact spot where the last strip of land meets the mighty sea, from here the Lybian coast is closer than Mount OlympusThat was expectable. A little warmish, but definitely welcomed in these circumstances.The most enjoyable part was just simply floating on the surface with the face too submerged in the water, observing the shadow of my body on the bright turquoise background, while feeling the energy levels returning to normal. Maybe Homer was wrong and the Underworld is somewhere else.The Zobject has no zobjections as wellI observed a single person on the trail returning from the pharos when I was high on the ridge, but spotted nobody after that. However, I saw a few smaller boats passing. One of them stopped pretty close, so we could conversate. They asked me if everything is fine and tried to tell me that there are some “underground dangers”, including sharks. Maybe this last one was only added to scare me as they couldn’t explain properly about the real problem, the currents, which can take you off the shore if you distance yourself enough. Sure, I don’t have plans to cover the 380 km to Cyrenaica.To reach the sea at the very end you have to descend another vertical 30 meters between the huge boulders, my favorite sectorPhrygana vs thalassa: the view to the right (east) while returningThis time on the classical, old rusty trail, heading to Kokkinogeia. To its taverna to be precise.After two cold beers I visited the nearby sanctuary of Poseidon, the god of the sea venerated in ancient Taenarum from which the cape got its name. Beside the mythological aspects, in those times the place was famous also because of the precious green marble.The present construction is actually a Christian church built in the Byzantine period from the rocks of the older Greek temple.This small cave situated on the shore of a protected bay close to the temple is known as an old ritualistic place related to the mythology of Hades. The guardian monster, Cerberus wasn’t present, the entrance was protected by some tanned western pensioners.Around 6 PM it was time to leave the southernmost village. Today and tomorrow I will stay in a traditional maniot stone tower in Palyros, another barely populated hamlet located at the very end of the old continent.View of the teal-colored Vathi bay on the right of the road. Its name, which means “deep” in greek is very common in the Mani peninsula.Arriving in Palyros, situated pretty high up on a hill about 150 meters above the seaAfter a warm welcome and a tasty dinner (moussaka with tsatziki, what else), sitting on my balcony. In Mani the stone towers are a very common sight. Many are abandoned, some inhabited, while a few (like this one) can be rented by travelers.Built in the times when vendettas between rival families were common, now the general atmosphere is more peaceful.I live in the room just above the entrance on the left, while the local family resides in the higher parts of the tower on the right. This picture will have some significance later on.The next morning: view of the eastern “pseudo cape” – as I named it – with Kourelos, a neighboring hamlet above. My host, mr Panos told me that he grow up there. Some horses grazing near the sanctuary of Poseidon on the fringes of Kokkinogeia, with the “famous” southernmost parking lot on the right. Today I have a serious objective in my mind: finding the gates of Hades! I formerly identified this crack on Google Earth on the shores of the “pseudo cape” peninsulaNot Cerberus this time either, but still a little suspiciousFair well: I will name it Hades 2To reach the other cavity, the one which according to the locals is the actual Cave of Hades I have to return to the parking lot, then cross the ridge towards the west. It’s not far, just a little rugged and thorny.I think it is a little farther on the rightYep, this is the place. As here the surface of the rocks right at the sea is very sharp, I couldn’t enter the water with the camera to take photos from inside. But even beyond this obstacle the highlight of the experience would’ve been remained out of the reach: there is a small chamber accessible through a narrow, short and low passage, what you can enter the easiest way by swimming underneath. The ceiling is not dangerously close during calmer waters like now, but can certainly became a threat when the sea is more turbulent.Inside there are two head-sized stalactite structures, one of them right above your shoulder so you can use it for stabilization while enjoying the view towards the stripe of light outside. Then you swim back underwater in the bright blue mass surrounded by small fishes.Before Poseidon became the patron of the area, it is said that the sun god was venerated here. There is a reference to this in the Homeric Hymn to Apollo, which recounts: “…and by the Laconian land they came to a sea-crowned city and the place of Helios who delights men, Tainaron, where the deep-fleeced sheep of lord Helios always graze and inhabit a delightful spot…”
The so called “Star of Aria” dates from a later period (1st century AD) and it’s part of the mosaic floor of a former roman villa.Bye, Kokkinogeia!Sage (salvia officinalis) on the roadside, the “olfactive leitmotiv” of the maniot experiencePorto Kagio, a tranquil resort with good tavernas. It sits just below Palyros, but you have to go round on the asphalt road as the thick phrygana vegetation will convince you to forget about a shortcut.After a relaxing swim followed by a tasty fish meal I am heading back to the stone towerMy room is comfortable and quiet, but has a “dark secret” which I didn’t know beforehand: there is a single key which opens it and that key is the one I received at my arrival. No, I didn’t lost it, but left it on the inside and the air-blast slammed the door. Nobody can open it. Maybe we could enter it through my balcony, thus a ladder is brought. Bad luck, the balcony door is also closed. As it’s already dusk, the temperamental Panos is a little worried. Maybe through the bathroom window? Fingers crossed, hopefully I left it open. Bingo, we are saved! The enter itself demanded some contortionist skills, but it was my time to redeem the bad karma. Changing from front to back posture, using some accessories of the bathroom’s interior as grips, I safely landed inside.The team (all one family) with Panos in the center. The attained luck continued to follow me the next day as my host traveled to Athens, thus could take me to Gytheio. From there I had to take a taxi to Skala again to start the hike towards the Evrotas gorge. Kostas, the driver didn’t speaks english, but he is good with numbers: after showing me 25 on the phone’s screen, he was more than happy with my 20+10 bill and didn’t want to understand my body language regarding the change: “No, no, no my friend, it’s enough-it’s enough, thank you very much!” Avoid Kostas at all costas, guys. On the way to collect the meteorological equipment. Today is less hot than all the previous days, I felt it both near the coast and farther inland. Some less developed cumulonimbus clouds appeared above the Taygetus, otherwise still sunshine everywhere.I reached the research area around 3:30 PM. Of course, nobody was here, the installation is intact. From this point you can observe the slightly endorheic nature of the ditch where the data logger stayed as I took this photo standing “downstream” from the tripod. Observing the milder temperatures, respectively the fact that has the tendency to did not rise farther more, I stopped the device after 4 PMGood result, it was worth the effort to take it with me. As I expected, the maximum was recorded on 18th July, while the minimum in the last night. Four out of five days the temperature raised above 41 degrees Celsius. Curious to compare it with the values registered at the nearby official stations.Job doneDue to the less hostile ambience, the return was less strenuous than in the day of the installationBridge in the central park of Skala: time for another cold Monster – the doctorTrying to avoid Kostas I went out to hitchhike, but it seems that everybody supports him and not me. The evening was approaching, thus after more than an hour on the roadside decided to accept again the taxi version. A helpful local waiter called for a cab and soon I was in Gytheio. It wasn’t Kostas and the price 25-2=23Profitis Ilias watching over the lively, romantic resort. Spending the night in a decent hotel right above the seaside promenade (a little noisy until the night, otherwise ideal for a solo traveler), the next day I had to return to Athens. Inside a church in Tripoli, central Peloponnese. In the morning I made a rapid itinerary change deciding to visit Argos. There are many buses from there to the capital, though not sure how many are that way. It turned out that there are only two every day, starting from Tripoli, the center of Laconia. Every region has its own company and the link between them is less frequented. The bus first went to Nafplio, the old greek capital, then another one continued to Argos.I decided to get off at the ruins of ancient Tiryns, hometown of the mythological hero Heracles, also known as Hercules. The place seemed empty and closed (maybe renovation?), thus I made another change in the plan: crossing the fence.An intruder inside the cyclopean walls. Still waiting to spot other visitors, which would mean that the site is open but the entrance is on the other side Nope, the former mycenaean complex is completely mineActually I was right, the entrance indeed is on the other side. But the placard showed that the closing time is 15:30, that was about 10-15 minutes before my arrival.Not my fault.From Tiryns I walked 9-10 km to Argos on the very flat and straight main road. My plan is to reach the castle of Larisa, which is high up on a hill. Locals told me there is no other way, you must go round along the asphalt. After the first 1-2 km I couldn’t resist the temptation to try a shortcut across the olive plantations. Though sweating more, it saved some time to comfortable catch the last evening bus to Athens.View from the citadel towards the north. The construction dates from the Byzantine times (12th century), but there are also ruins from the antiquity on another smaller hill nearby. The two were connected at a certain time as the city has a very tumultuous history starting from the earliest periods. I heard that even in our times still exists some kind of rivalry between Argos and Sparta, ironically including even the battle for the title of the hottest place in Greece as both have their maximum around 46 centigrade.Descending under the Argive walls, looking towards Mycenae. How to finish it better?
